Carved through the hills of Gorski Kotar in Croatia is the breathtaking, 800 metre-long canyon known as the Devil’s Passage. We started our journey from an old railway station, 700 meters above sea level. Early morning mist, illuminated by the rising sun, covered the silent canyon below.
Together with the nearby Green Whirlpool, the Devil’s Passage is a perfect trip for nature lovers. As soon as you leave the railroad tracks behind and start walking through dense forest, small streams begin to follow you along the way. It’s a relatively short trip, about 3 hours in total, but you will not leave this place disappointed.
Early into your walk you will arrive at the Green Whirlpool. This small, dark green lake is dominated by a magnificent, 70 meter-high waterfall.
Beyond the Green Whirlpool you will come across a hydropower plant, which is some 100 years old and blends unexpectedly well into its surroundings. It hasn’t been modernized and is really just an old house with cool looking machinery inside. A short walk away is a restaurant where you can have some traditional food; a resting stop before entering the Devil’s Passage. While you can reach this place by car, we recommend taking the whole tour, starting and finishing at the railway station.
Entering the Devil’s passage canyon means entering a place where you will hear only the rumble of water. Passing through the canyon doesn’t take long, some 30 minutes or so. You will mostly walk along the water, and in the narrowest, and the most impressive part of the canyon, you will climb and walk on a staircase made just above the water. We are not sure why the canyon is called the Devil’s Passage but one possible explanation is that your mind plays tricks on you, making you think you can hear voices in the noise the water makes. Maybe it’s just the way our brains function when listening to monotonous noise; you can hear someone call your name, or at least it sounds like that.
At the end of a canyon there is a small resting point where you can have food and discuss your impressions. Deafening noise becomes the relaxing sound of a stream, so you can finally talk to whoever you are with without needing to yell. At the end of the trail you will find a 200 metre deep cave called the Husband’s House, where you will immediately notice the perfect silence after the noise of the canyon. We advise you to bring something to cover your shoes because it gets muddy inside.
Beyond the cave you will continue through the woods and find yourself standing at the same railway station where you started your exploration. Like us, you will be amazed and enriched by by your experience. So if you ever find yourself near this place, find an additional 3 hours and thank us later.